Culinary Adventures in Mount Vernon With the exception of some glaring omissions, Mount Vernon offers its residents and visitors a vast array of culinary adventures. This column will showcase some of the better and lesser-known restaurants this vibrant neighborhood has to offer. Our first venture was to a Mt. Vernon staple, City Café. My dining companions and I arrived on a busy Friday evening and were informed of a 45-minute wait. While off-putting at first, I was happy to see the place packed with diners. City Café located at Cathedral and Eager Street is housed in a striking historic building which was originally a car dealership and then later the dance club Girard’s. After a devastating fire, the mayor of Baltimore at the time, William Donald Schaefer ordered the building restored, and after a few incarnations City Café opened in 1994. It will be celebrating its 20th anniversary this fall. Our evening began with cocktails. I had a Tito vodka martini while my friends ordered the Mountain High (whiskey, Campari, and sweet vermouth) and a Baltimore Belle (gin, pink pepper corns, and bitters). All drinks were very flavorful and though not a gin drinker, the Baltimore Belle proved to be very refreshing. We shared, as appetizers, the oysters (4 per serving). Though small, they were very tasty with a subtle hint of Pernod and a rich cheese topping. Also shared were the fried green tomatoes. These were a hit. The crisp tomatoes were topped with crabmeat and a beurre blanc. Our entrees included the short rib Bourguignon, a large tender rib accompanied by perfectly-cooked baby turnips and carrots. The sauce was very aromatic but not overpowering. Next was the duck breast served medium-rare as per the chef’s suggestion. This lovely dish was presented with black lentils, chopped apples, and prosciutto. Our last dish was the lamb ragout over homemade fazzoletto pasta. There was a slight sense of disappointment here. The ragout though creamy had a faint gamy taste. The pasta (translated as “handkerchief”) was a bit rubbery in texture. Our meal was completed with a sample of desserts called the Café Threeo, a combination of flourless chocolate cake, a pistachios crème brulee, and a deconstructed carrot cake. All in all these were satisfying but the brulee had the texture of a boxed pudding mix. Our server Kristin was pleasant and attentive. Overall this was a most satisfying dining experience. We wish City Café another 20 years of success!
